This technique is said to have originated in Japan. While I don’t fully believe it started there I do believe that they had allot of influence in perfecting it into the efficient fish catching system it is today.
Let’s start with the basic rig. Most of the time when drop shotting I like to use Sunline on my spinning reel. It’s abrasion resistant and surprisingly strong for such a light line. I use a 7 foot Kistler Helium 3 it has a soft tip with plenty of backbone. Originally the craze was to use the small Owner J hooks, aka Extra Wide gap hooks but since this technique has got popular they have made hooks especially for drop shotting called, what else, a Daiichi drop shot hook. They pretty much look like a big salmon egg hook. I still use the extra wide gap hooks when I’m rigging my offering weedless, which I will go into detail more later but for open water presentations the Daiichi hook is my personal choice.
Tie your hook on using the Palomar knot making sure you tie it by going through the point side of the hook, be sure to leave at least 2 to 3 feet of extra line on the free end, aka the tag end. The reason for this is because you will be attaching the weight to this “Leader”. Now the tricky part. After you have tied on your hook take the tag end and run it through the eye of the hook, point side first. This will allow your hook to stick basically straight out. By the way, the leader length just depends on how far off the bottom the fish are feeding so there is no “Written In Stone” length. Let the bass tell you Grasshopper. Try different lengths until you get bit and chances are you will continue to catch then with that length.
Next comes the weight. There are a whole lot of different ways and types of weights you can use, its all about preference. Of course they do have specialty, drop shot, sinkers while they are a great choice they can be a little spendy. Two methods that are less expensive are as follows. First is to tie a small snap swivel, this helps eliminate line twist, and attach a small casting sinker, bell weight. Another trick I use is under your hook squeeze a good sized split shot to your line, then tie a regular knot under it. With this setup if you get hung up on a rock or some other structure, with a little pressure, the knot will pull through the split shot and all you loose is your weight. I know there has been more than once when I have been shaking and pulling on the rig and the weight finally lets go I have had bass just blast the bait so be aware. My guess is the bass was watching this “Thing” shake around then attempt to flee all of the sudden and they just have to kill it.
I have also had luck with placing a Revenge Jig on the tag end thereby giving the bass two different offerings to look at. The bad part about this is if you hook 2 bass at the same time on light line chances are you wont get both of them and if the one on the upper rig breaks your line you loose both fish as well as both rigs.
On a side note. The drop shot method is not strictly limited to light line, small baits and small hooks, it can be equally effective flipping into heavy brush with heavy line, big baits and of course big hooks rigged weedless.
Now lets discuss what type of baits does one use. Out here in California we generally use finesse stuff, small worms, reapers, jerk baits, eels, sculpin’s etc. Were talking the 3-4 inch variety. At times I’ll also toss 6 and 8 inch worms, so like I said nothing is the right way. Whichever you prefer and have confidence in then it’s the right one for you.
To rig your lure there are several different ways of hooking it up. I like the basic weedless method where the hook point is not exposed as well as the standard nose hooking. There is a right time and place for each rig so I’ll leave that up to you.
Ok, your probably thinking something like “Tell us how to fish this thing”, if you’ll hold on, that what I’m going to do next. This techniques works in all sorts of situations but really shines when the bite is tough. Why would someone want to slowly shake a worm when the fish are on a reaction bite? Me I would rather not. It works in deep and shallow water, in brush, in submerged rock piles, just about anywhere. You can cast out and shake back or you can watch your sonar and go vertical if you so desire. I think the biggest trick to fishing a drop shot is to fish it slow.
Cast it out, take up the slack but allow your weight to stay in contact with the bottom an shake it in place without moving the weight is the objective. This method also works on bedding bass. Again, cast it out, drag the weight into the bed and shake your bait without moving the weight. This drives the bass crazy, especially if your bait looks like a sunfish!
Generally speaking when a bass bites this rig it’s a very subtle bite. You feel pressure and the rod starts to load up or your lure starts to swim off, this is were the light action rod really pays off because the bass will feel some pressure but you will have time to set the hook, which by the way, in this situation is a very light hookset. Basically just reel the line tight and maybe give a little tug but keep reeling as fast as you can. Of course if the fish is taking drag you don’t want to reel against him, let him run but ALWAYS keep pressure on him. If he attempt’s to jump try sticking your rod tip into the water to avoid him jumping.
Try drop shotting the next time the fish just don’t want to cooperate and you will be pleasantly surprised.
Until Next Time, Good Luck and Tight Lines To Ya!
